Freedom

Traveling to Bali has been about discovering amazing places and meeting amazing people, but it has also been about discovering a new passion. Oh, how I will miss waking up in the morning, jumping out of bed to put my bikini on and drive to the beach, hoping for good waves. According to Wikipedia, surfing is “surface water sport in which the surfer rides on a moving wave”. Pretty simple and straight forward, yet I am sure that anyone who has surfed will agree than in reality surfing is so much more. For me, learning to surf was also learning how to look at life with wisdom.

Surfing is about dealing with whatever comes your way and try to make the best out of it.

Surfing is at times being on top of a wave and feeling like the king of the world , but sometimes it is being three feet below the surface, crushed by a mass of water, feeling so small, disoriented and vulnerable.

It is knowing and accepting that things constantly change.

Surfing is about knowing that even when it’s rough, all you can do- and the best you can do – is take a deep breath and remember that it will pass. Sometimes it is just one bad wave coming at you, sometimes it is a series of them. But it always gets better, even if sometimes it takes you some time to recover.

Surfing is acknowledging that you are not alone on the wave and that it is important to communicate and that sharing is caring.

Surfing is about being in the present moment. No point in trying to anticipate because the truth is that you never know what the ocean holds for you.

Surfing is accepting that you cannot control everything, but trusting that whatever comes you will find the best way to make the most out of it.

Surfing is knowing that falling is part of the game, and that it is how you learn. What really matters is trying again, and again.

Surfing is about enjoying the ride, not thinking about the finish line.

Surfing is realizing that happiness can be as simple as a board and oneness with the ocean.

Last but not least, surfing is an incredibly exhilarating  and addictive feeling of freedom.

 

 

Thank you Bali Surf Freedom for this unforgettable experience, I cannot wait for the next one !

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7 comments

  • Voilà une très belle et forte expérience sportive, Sigrid. Je suis moi-même amateur de sport de glisse, je comprends tout le plaisir et la sensation de liberté que vous pouvez ressentir. Je pratique le ski alpin à bon niveau depuis ma tendre enfance. Il n’y a rien de plus agréable qu’une descente hors piste dans la neige poudreuse entre les sapins. Just Freedom ! Et vous le constaterez : plus votre maîtrise technique du surf sera grande, et plus vous prendrez de plaisir à accomplir un “run” parfait ! 🙂

    J’aime aussi la façon dont vous transposez votre expérience sportive en une merveilleuse leçon de vie. Le parallèle est saisissant, et on note là toute votre intelligence, mais aussi votre humilité et adaptabilité face aux forces naturelles. Certains lecteurs admireront le carnet de voyage paradisiaque, pour ma part j’y vois aussi un formidable journal spirituel et philosophique, particulièrement intéressant. Vous êtes une véritable source d’inspiration, Sigrid.

    Je voulais vous dire aussi que, grâce à vous, j’ai commencé à étudier la philosophie yoga. Connaissance de soi, simplicité, méditation : tout s’éclaire aujourd’hui, merci beaucoup. La lecture de l’article “Inner Peace” sur le Columbia Spectator a été une vraie révélation pour moi. Si vous avez des ouvrages à recommander, n’hésitez pas, je suis preneur de tout ce qui peut enrichir mon esprit.

    Excellente journée à vous, and keep your beautiful smile and spirit ♥
    ~ Anton de France ~

    Like

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